Maze is part of the Gordon Ramsay stable of restaurants and Jason Atherton is the Chef Patron.  Maze is a tasting menu restaurant where Atherton takes great pains to provide inventive and delicious sharable plates.  Mindful that there were three of us, and we didn’t want to go away hungry, we asked if we could just order the entire Chef’s Menu (instead of the ‘this or that’ approach suggested for two diners) plus a few other choices off the ala carte menu.  We were told straight away that we could do what we wanted…so we did.  And we were well pleased with the result.

Chef Atherton’s dishes are pleasing to the eye and a treat for the taste buds.  The Chef, who has worked at the world famous El Bulli in Spain among other impressive stops in his career, manages to orchestrate flavors, textures, and plating into a culinary symphony.  Plus, on a personal level, he was gracious and humble when we were escorted into his busy Friday night kitchen for the introductions as promised.  The service, from the moment you enter the door, is warm and unobtrusive.  We enjoyed a great meal with uninterrupted conversation in a seamless manner pretty much all evening long.  The knowledgeable and friendly sommelier made a great recommendation for a wine that would cover all bases of our choices: a 2007 Spanish white wine, Mas la Mola, Priorat.  It was an excellent choice as it did go well with everything that came to the table.

This was my second trip to Maze, the first being just after they had opened and was an equally as good of an experience, so I must say that Mr. Atherton and his staff truly deserve their Michelin rating.  Instead of trying to say glowing things about each of the dishes, I will simply list the menu we covered that evening and say that there wasn’t a single loser in the tastings.  If I was to choose just one dish that was superior to the rest, I really couldn’t.  They were all good in their own ways.  But my own two favorites of the evening were the Suffolk pork ‘cheek n belly’ and the Cornish lamb and tongue.  Both were just delightful!

Here are the dishes we enjoyed in order of serving:

• Onion squash soup, puffed wild rice, ewe’s curd, smoked bacon, braised chicken thighs, chestnut powder
• Crab salad, marinated golden beetroot, apple jelly, Bloody Mary sorbet
• Cornish red mullet, cuttlefish, garlic purée, rabbit Bolognese
• Roasted hake in Parma ham, chorizo and pimento purée, squid paint
• Suffolk pork ‘cheek n belly’, spiced pumpkin jam, red cabbage, crispy crackling
• ‘Warm Scottish breakfast’ London-cured salmon, smoked haddock risotto, egg and bacon, horseradish snow
• Irish ox ‘tongue n cheek’, caper raisin and ginger carrots, horseradish pomme purée
• Cornish lamb and tongue, salt marsh mutton shepherd’s pie, spring cabbage and mint jelly
• Apple and blackberry trifle, cider granité and almond financier
• Selection of farmhouse cheeses
• Peanut butter and cherry jam sandwich, tonka bean cream and dehydrated cherries
• Bitter chocolate délice, honey gelatine, honeycomb ice cream

So cheers to Chef Atherton and his staff for a memorable evening of delicious food, best wishes to Karen for many more birthdays and a big thanks to Miles for his thoughtful invitation to share their special evening in the city…and for picking up the tab!

Feast is a collaboration of partners Richard Knight and James and Meagan Silk who have brought both a world of experience and an excellent restaurant to Houston.  I had first heard of Feast from my wife who had enjoyed a meal there with friends and was sure it was my kind of menu.  Chef James Silk’s connection to Fergus Henderson of the book ‘Nose to Tail Eating’ and St. John restaurants fame in London clinched the deal.  I’ve eaten at Henderson’s St. John Bread & Wine in Spitalfields (and was star-struck to be seated next to Michelin Star chef Angela Hartnett MBE) where my dining partner and I pronounced both the adventurous food and the experience outstanding.  Feast looked like my kind of place.

Tuesday’s dinner started with a warm reception from the staff and assorted cocktails for the guests.  It seemed appropriate to distribute a few starters around the table to whet our appetites and we selected the smoked salmon, pork rillettes and the albóndigas; all excellent and served with their homemade bread.  Some salads were also distributed to the more health conscious of the group.  It was at this point of the evening, prior to the actual arrival of the roasted guest of honor, that we made our wine selection.  Having done a bit of pre-dinner searching for the right pairing, we perused Feast’s well-stocked wine list and decided to focus on a single Spanish winery, López de Heredia, where we selected both red and white riojas.  Good choices both.

Then the pig arrived and we were in awe.  There, in all his (or her?) glory, was a delightfully roasted-to-a-turn suckling pig stuffed with a tasty dressing and accompanied by bubble and squeak, brussel sprouts and braised red cabbage with apples.  Meagan set down a carving knife and large fork and we set about the DIY dismantling and plating of our new roasted friend.  The table, which had been engaged in lively conversation, became a wee bit silent as the succulent morsels of roast pork and crispy skin were distributed.  Seconds were had by all and some members of the group, who shall remain nameless, actually left their seats to make sure the cheek meat did not go to waste.  And the crispy ears were rewarded to the best behaved guest for her canine friends at home.  It was just perfect melt-in-your-mouth roasted pork…a highly recommended meal and experience.

We finished the meal with assorted desserts including an excellent version of my personal all time favorite, Sticky Toffee Pudding, and after dinner drinks.  It was an outstanding meal by any measure and the service was crisp, warm and attentive…James and Meagan made it seem like we were dining in their home.  We are looking forward to returning soon to sample their regular menu of two halves where there are both Feast favorites and daily specials.  And hopefully some of those adventurous ‘nose to tail eating’ opportunities.

You can find Feast at 219 Westheimer Road, between Taft and Bagby, in Houston, TX 77006.  Call +1 (713) 529-7788 to book a table.  You can see their menu on the Blogroll link above or at http://feasthouston.googlepages.com/home.  Email them at feastcompany@gmail.com and follow them on Twitter @FeastHouston!

The distinguished gentleman in question was in his late 60′s, tall with a shaved head and wearing a light mustard-colored dinner jacket and bow tie.  He was commanding in the way of a retired military officer and loud in the way of someone half deaf.  He put the Le Gavroche staff through their paces all evening long with demands and requests and suggestions of how “Michel” (he thought he was on a first name basis with this famous chef) could improve things around the restaurant.  He even went so far as to deliver his next booking request so that the entire dining room could hear and listed the things that had to happen before he would agree to come again; a particular table so his guests could survey the room, the type of flowers that were short enough so that he could see his guests across the table and that he would not allow any wine at the table.  His guests would only drink pink champagne.  The eye rolling amongst the other diners was epidemic.

Of course, I took the gentleman to be a Lord, or at least an MBE, but my old boss and friend, David Stroud, who had invited me to this dinner months ago, advised me that it was not typically British to act in this manner.  (This kind of boorish behavior is usually ascribed to Americans on holiday by the rest of the world)  But since Brits can detect the slightest regional accent, he had already classified Colonel Mustard’s as East London and slightly Cockney.  The guy was no upper class retired military officer but probably a cab driver made good.  All in all, it was good fun for the entire room of diners to watch even if the staff were a bit harried by the old gentleman.

There was one other incident that made this evening memorable in addition to the food, which I promise I will get to shortly.  Once we were sat down it became immediately apparent that the smallish dining room, maybe 20 tables, was chock full of wait staff all dedicated to our comfort and satisfaction.  Since we elected to have the 8-course matching food and wines menu it was quite simply a ballet of black or white-coated staff sweeping in to the table to set the proper stemware or pour the next wine or serve the next course or to remove plates and glasses or to pour sparkling water.  We marveled that at any one time we could see at least a dozen staff in the dining room.  One lady in particular caught our eye as she seemed to be everywhere.  With her bright red hair and fast movements she stood out from the rest of the short-haired male staffers.  It was a complete shock to us both when she served the main course of lamb and there were two of her!  They were identical twins from Austria and it was now no wonder we thought she was everywhere at once.

OK, now the promised food review.  It will be short and sweet.  I will say this once and then just list the menu and wines we enjoyed and let you see for yourself.  I can’t think of as meal I’ve enjoyed as much.  Chef Michel Roux, Jr. is a genius with subtle flavors and artistic presentation.  His tasting menu is wide-ranging with shellfish and his signature soufflé and, and…just read the menu below and you will see what I mean.  And the paired wines were simply superb.  The gastronomical experience at Le Gavroche is awe inspiring. The good Chef himself came to our table mid-meal to inquire about our experience and graciously signed the tasting menu for David’s daughter, Emily, who had just seen him on a television program.  It was a delightful evening to have good company, outstanding food and great entertainment.  This is a world class restaurant.

What we enjoyed:

Petite Salade de Homard à la Mangue et Citron Vert

Lobster Salad with Mango, Avocado, Basil and Lime

Vondeling Babiana Noctiflora 2005

Paarl, South Africa

Soufflé Suissesse

Cheese Soufflé Cooked on Double Cream

Champagne Martel Cuvée Victoire “Fût de Chêne” 1998

Coquille St. Jacques “à la Coque”, Parfumées au Gingembre

Scallop Baked in the Shell, Flavoured with Ginger

Domaine Gavoty “Cuvée Clarendon” Rosé 2007

Côtes de Provence

Gratin de Langoustines et Escargots au Persil et Piment d’Espelette

Langoustines and Snails Glazed in a light Hollandaise Sauce

flavoured with Basque Pepper and Parsley

Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru “Les Caradeux” 2004

Domaine Chanson

Escalope de Foie Gras Chaud et Pastille à la Cannelle

Hot Duck Foie Gras and Crispy Duck Pancake Flavored with Cinnamon

Banyuls Reserva

Domaine de la Tour Vielle

Agneau de lait des Pyrénées Rôti, Flageolets, Carottes et Petits Navets

Roast Lamb from The Pyrennes

Flageolet Beans with Wild Mushrooms, Thyme Sauce

Château du Paradis 2000

St. Emilion Grand Cru

Le Plateau de Fromages

Selection of French and British Farmhouse Cheese

Château Cabezac “Belvèze” 2005

Minervois

Le Petite Assiette du Chef

An Assortment of the Chef’s favourite Desserts

Vin de Constance 2004

Klein Constantia

Café at Petits Fours

There you have it.  One of the finest meals I have ever had the pleasure of experiencing.  And the experience was almost sensory overload with the progression of outstanding dishes, the perfect wine pairings, the ballet of the staff on the dining room floor and the overblown antics of our friend Colonel Mustard in the next booth.  The funniest thing said all evening came from the maître’d to we patrons in the bar after Colonel Mustard and his, I’m sure long-suffering, wife were seated downstairs and out of earshot.  He noted after coming in from the foyer where the little dog was yapping that the Chef now recommended “rack of dog”.

If you ever want to treat your sweetheart or impress a business client, this is the place to go.  You will not be disappointed in any aspect of your experience.  Le Gavroche deserves its Michelin stars and our continued patronage.  Well done Chef Roux.  Please see their website on the Blogroll.

The Guinea was established way back in 1675 on Bruton Place in Mayfair, just off Berkeley Square.  The pub is cozy and inviting and has that nice British feel with both inside and outside places to set your pint while waiting for your table.  I was first introduced to The Guinea in 2002 and it has been a regular stop on each trip to London ever since.  So this review is based on a lot of excellent meals at The Guinea as I’ve probably eaten there 20 odd times now.  My boss has graced their tables even more times than I and last we night we dined there together and had another great meal.

The Guinea Grill is known to have some of the best beef in London but their award-winning pies are outstanding.  Three times they’ve been National Steak and Kidney Pie Champion for Great Britain. Since I am partial to a good bone-in rib eye steak as my main for dinner, it took me a few visits to pass on the red meat and order a pie.  It was very tasty and I highly recommend it.  But I digress…

Last night after Farid made sure that we had ice cold Grey Goose martinis set in front of us he asked if we would like the usual wine; the 2003 Museum Reserva Cigales from Spain.  The Museum winery is located in Cigales, a D.O. in Northern Spain, in Castilla-Leon. The estate vineyards, rich in alluvial soil, are located 650-800 meters above sea level and the wine is made from 100% Tinta del Pais grapes from vines ranging from 50 to 60 years old.  It is hearty and robust and goes well with any roasted meat.

Randy started with his usual native Rossmore oysters on the half-shell from Loch Ryan in South West Scotland and I opted for the Grilled Mackerel on warm Potato and Spinach Salad.  Both were outstanding.  The grilled mackerel was finished with a sprinkle of sea salt and laid on a bed of spinach and rocket with sliced potatoes.  Good flavor combination and nice texture.  For my main I ordered the English Lamb which was served as perfectly cooked (read rare) chops with a side of mint sauce and a jacket potato.  Randy went for the Calves Liver with Onion Mash and Madeira Jus.  Each was well presented and quite tasty.  They went perfectly with the wine.  Dessert, which we had agreed to avoid unless they had Sticky Toffee Pudding, was ordered as a pair when our server Alice announced that they did indeed have it on the menu.  For those of you who have never tried this typically British dessert made with Medjool dates served with a toffee sauce and sometimes with a dollop of crème fraîche or vanilla ice cream, you don’t know what you are missing.  Suffice it to say, if you see it on a menu don’t hesitate.

A word on the beef at The Guinea.  This is the only place I have found in the UK that truly prepares steak in the manner that I’m accustomed.  You may sneer at us Americans with our fast food fetishes but you can’t deny that there is nowhere else in the world that does steak better than the good old US of A.  Thick cut, marbled, tender and juicy; that is what I expect of a steak at a high end restaurant.  The Brits and the French both cut the rib eye steak too thin to cook it correctly (again, read rare) and it eventually ends up overcooked and tough.  The Aussies do a bit of a better job on beef but it’s still not Morton’s quality.  When you walk into The Guinea you go right past the meat counter with the grill chef in full cooking mode and you can see what is in the offing for beef.  So order up the 16oz rib eye on the bone and prepare for a lovely piece of grilled beef.

The Guinea Grill is one of the hidden treats of London.  Bruton Place is really just an alleyway and if you are on the north end of Berkeley Square on an evening you can peer down the lane where the regulars are standing outside the pub, pint in hand, enjoying the same Guinea hospitality that has been at this location for over 300 years.  See their website on the Blogroll and give Brian a call to book a table.

To quote their website; “1907 is a world class restaurant and bar housed in a 100 year old rag trade factory, situated in the hub of Perth´s former fashion district. 1907 is the result of an idea to evolve Perth’s inner city, maintaining its old charms and incorporating cutting edge design to match a world class dining experience provided by our enthusiastic team of hospitality professionals.”  And you know, I think we agree.  The food was well-prepared, well-presented and tasted fantastic.  The wines were outstanding.  The service was perfect.  The dining room has a classic feel with oversized backs on the booths that give you the feeling that you are the only diners in the restaurant.  Cozy, inviting and a life-sized plastic horse…a good start to the evening.

A review of their wine list for the required pre-dinner drink found a nice Shiraz, the 2004 Laughing Jack from the Barossa Valley, SA.  But our new friend Nate immediately counseled me not to order it because he had a better offer in a French Syrah, the 2005 Gilles Robin ‘Papillon’ Crozes-Hermitage from the Rhone Valley, France.  According to the Winedome blog; “Gilles Robin’s vineyards are located in the appellation of Crozes-Hermitage where over 11 hectares of Syrah is planted on the stony and sandy ‘La Terrace de Chassis’. The soil of this plain is rich in round ‘galets‘ on brown clay-limestone, producing showy wines that are round and fruit-driven. The ruby colored Cuvée Papillon is an excellent example of this style with a nose of ripe plums and prunes, mulberry, violets and olives. The palate is round and pliant with lots of ripe fruit upfront that slowly stretches to a spicy finish. The springy character of the youthful fruit is further enhanced by a short…about 6 months…élévage on oak.”  In wine layman’s terms, we thought it very smooth and quite tasty. A good choice.

The ordering process was a bit difficult as there were too many really good choices.  But eventually we settled on the seared scallops with pork and crab relish, tamarind, and green chili and the wok fried quail with white pepper, coriander root, and chili vinegar for our starters.  It was obvious from the first taste of both that we were in for a great foodie experience.  Presented in a modern fusion style with both classic French and Asian influences, both starters were an explosion of taste and visually stunning.  While I must admit the seared scallops were fantastic, I thought the wok fried quail to be one of the best things I’ve tasted.  Ever.  They were simply delicious with a salty, peppery, and tangy flavor.  And cooked to perfection; slightly crunchy with a moist interior.  Not easy to do with a small bird like a quail.  Good thing Nate provided a finger bowl because I had quail juice on both hands.  And, while I may have disappointed him when I insisted on a change to the Laughing Jack Shiraz for my second glass of wine, he only muttered but complied.  This is a robust Barossa wine with a deep ruby color and hints of plum, rose, pepper, anise, and mint.  The long and creamy finish and spice aftertaste made it superb with the wok fried quail.

The next course included another starter for Retha; the seven-hour slow roasted duck with lemongrass infused pan juices and fresh coconut and a new glass of wine for her; the 2005 Chateau De Cedre ‘Heritage’ Malbec Merlot from Cahors, France.  She was very happy with her choices.  I moved on to one of the mains; the duck breast with quince, blood orange marmalade and crumpets.  The duck was cooked a perfect medium rare and the combination with quince and marmalade was terrific.  I stuck with the Laughing Jack Shiraz and was not disappointed.

Retha selected the white chocolate mousse tart, strawberry mille-feuille, cocoa ice for our dessert and I added a glass of the 2007 Mario Giribaldi Moscato d’Asti Piemonte, Italy to share.  Both were very nice and went well together.  In fact, the dessert was so good she had a problem sharing and Nate was complicit when he didn’t bring any cutlery for my use!  We finished with glasses of Masala chai tea.  A perfect end to a great meal.

Perth was the highlight of our trip to Oz with its great weather, friendly folks and cold beer.  Retha got to frolic with the quokkas on Rottnest Island and take a wine tasting tour up the Swan River while I toiled at an oil and gas conference during the days but we were very impressed with the outstanding choices for foodies in the evenings.  We still have a list of three or four more recommended restaurants just in East Perth that we didn’t get to try!  And, when taking a break from the formal restaurants, we had a couple of good meals at Bobby Dazzler’s and Fenian’s pubs as well.  And I became quite partial to the odd pint of Toohey’s New while Down Under. It’s a long plane ride from just about anywhere but Western Australia is a real treat.  Give it a shot.  And say hello to Nate for us.  Please visit the 1907 website on the Blogroll.

Turns out the Ash Street Cellar is but a small cog in the overall back alley experience at this location where at least two other restaurants and three nightclubs reside.  On our second visit a few nights later, we were obviously the oldest folks in the alley populated with well-dressed young Aussies who were lined up to be admitted to the trendy rooftop night clubs in the area.  We were dismissed into the Ash Street Cellar with hardly a second glance.  But the second visit may have been even better than the first.

Back to the wine…we were convinced on the first visit to try a glass of the 2006 Descendientes de J. Palacios “Petalos” from the Bierzo region of Spain made from the Mencia grape and we came back a second night to try a whole bottle.   From a review in the Wine Enthusiast; “This is Descendientes’ so-called starter Bierzo, but it rises above the tried and true value zone to exhibit mineral, crushed violet petals, graham cracker and pure dark-fruit aromas. The palate is smooth and plush, with lush black-fruit flavors, easygoing tannins and some creamy length. It’s not as vivid as the 2005, but it’s still mighty impressive.  Score: 91.”  So run, don’t walk, to your favorite wine store and order some today.

And then, on to the food…the Ash Street Cellar serves traditional small tapas plates and has a limited but nice array of choices. This is a wine bar first as their wine list is extensive.  On the first night we dove into plates of crostini with caramelized onion, anchovy & black olive, of salt & chilli school prawns with aioli, a rocket, aged feta & walnut salad with balsamic dressing and the best dish of the evening…Wagyu beef bresaola.  Think wonderfully marbled beef (same breed as used for Kobe beef) that has been air-dried, salted and aged about 2-3 months until it becomes hard and a dark red, almost purple color. It is made from eye of round and is lean and tender with a sweet, musty smell. It originated in Valtellina, a valley in the Alps of northern Italy’s Lombardy region.  This stuff was the real deal.

We finished the evening with a wonderful banana dessert and a shared glass of Romate Cardenal Cisneros Pedro Ximénez (Jerez) sherry.  This sweet wine is made from over ripe and sun-dried Pedro Ximénez grapes. The grapes are laid out on esparto-grass mats to dry for one and a half to three weeks, known as the “soleo” process. As a result the sugar concentration increases. Pedro Ximénez Cardenal Cisneros has been aged for over fifteen years in American oak casks using the traditional method.  It’s the color of molasses with a nose of figs and toffee…a dusky, dense and delicately exquisite after dinner drink.

Sitting at the bar on Night Two we ordered a bottle of the “Petalos” wine and were not disappointed in the least.  We started with freshly shucked oysters with eschallot vinaigrette and a bowl of marinated olives as our starter plates and followed with chorizo with parmesan crumbed artichokes, mint & lemon and, once again since it was so good, the Wagyu beef bresaola.  Another superb meal.

So, if you find yourself in Sydney (and we hope you do soon) head off to the Ash Street Cellar and enjoy a relaxed atmosphere with wonderful food and a great wine selection.  The staff have that lovely laid-back Aussie approach that is both welcoming and personal and makes you come back again and again.  See the link to their website on the Blogroll.

On our first night in Moscow we asked the concierge for a dinner recommendation for traditional Russian food.  He directed us down Tverskaya Ulitsa a few blocks towards Red Square to the Gorki Restaurant.  The food was typically Russian; caviar, borscht and stroganoff with great breads and it was just as good and just as expensive as advertised…the equivalent of $300 for two starters, two mains and a dessert.  And, since nothing on the wine list was less than $100, cold beer had to suffice.  The food was tasty but the prices daunting.  You really couldn’t eat out on a regular basis at those prices.  The next night we were a bit more specific with the concierge asking for a local Russian restaurant, one where real Russians might actually go to eat.  While Жар-Птица was almost too quaint, and the clientele looked suspiciously like Western business types with Russian hosts, it was much closer to our request than the previous evening.

Жар-Птица is part of a trilogy of restaurants wrapped around a corner that includes an Italian restaurant (Antica Trattoria da Milio) and a Chinese restaurant (Tao) as well.  We can vouch for good food at the trattoria but didn’t get a chance to try Tao.   Жар-Птица is decorated as one might find an old inn or a café in a Russian village and is a little bit kitschy with the period costumes for the wait staff.  But immediately upon opening the menu we knew we were in the right place.  Where else but Russia could you get lightly pickled herring with spring onions and lard served with ice cold Русский стандарт (Russian Standard) vodka as a starter?  The salted herring were presented on toast with both thin sliced red and green onions and the ‘lard’ (the term turned out to be a bit of awkward transliteration as it was really just raw bacon fat) was cut into strips and piled in the middle of the serving plate.  The bites of herring, toast, onions and lard with a sip of vodka were just outstanding!  My main was a Siberian dish called Skoblyanka that was a stroganoff-like mixture of beef and onions in a savory brown gravy overlayed with sliced potatoes, fresh sliced tomatoes, small bits of pickles and then covered in cheese and baked in a deep dish.  A wonderful combination of flavors and textures and quite possibly the perfect Russian comfort food for the steppes of Siberia during those long, cold, dark winters.  Vodka probably not optional.

Skoblyanka

We learned at both restaurants that beef stroganoff is traditionally served with mashed potatoes and pickles.  Western palates may be more familiar with beef stroganoff served over rice or egg noodles and certainly no pickles are ever involved.  But we became fans upon tasting the traditionally prepared dish.  The savory beef, onions and mushrooms in a sour cream sauce matched nicely with the mashed potatoes and the bites of crunchy dill pickles.  And our dessert was a lovely set of caramel covered bananas.  Crunchy, sweet and delicious.  And all this for the equivalent of $125 or about $175 less than the night before at the Gorki.  And with no loss in food quality or taste either.  The service was attentive even if the wait staff spoke no English and our only Russian consisted of being able to say we didn’t speak Russian.  Which was probably kind of obvious when you think about it.

Жар-Птица was good enough for us to take our friends (a Brit, an Italian and a real Russian!) there a couple of nights later where we confirmed the quality of the food and tried a few other delicacies like bear ravioli and sliced beef tongue.  Even got dragged into some traditional Russian folk dances with the restaurant’s roving musicians.  Fun.  So, if you find yourself in Moscow and fancy a well-prepared traditional Russian meal head for:

Жар-Птица (or Zhar-Ptitsa or Firebird)

37, 2nd Brestskaya Ulitsa

Moscow, Russia

+7 (251) 71 85

Starting with a chilled glass of Pouilly-Fuissé while I perused the well-appointed menu, I settled on the usual starter of papadams with four dips; pickled papaya, garlic, mint sauce, chili and they added a new one on me, sliced raw red onion with a light dusting of black salt and a squeeze of lemon.  Very tasty.  For my main I selected Raan-e-Dumpukht, a leg of lamb marinated in dark rum and stuffed with onions, pickled garlic and cheese and Dal Dumpukht; Arhar lentils with yellow chilies, yogurt and garlic cooked on dum (a sealed earthenware pot) for the accompaniment. And I ordered a glass (or was it two) of Chateau Laube with dinner.

Without a doubt, this was the finest Indian food I had ever consumed.  The lamb was delivered en croute (do they call it that in India?) in the shape of a lamb’s leg and tasted fantastic.  Using naan to dip into the dal with the bites of lamb, I’m couldn’t believe I was in the ‘Second Best Restaurant!” in the hotel.  I finished traditionally with a cup of Masala chai tea laced with demarar sugar.  Perfect.  I couldn’t wait for Bukhara on Friday.

Since Dum-Pukht was white table cloths and formalities, I made the assumption that Bukhara was a similar format.  Having made a speech at the conference that day, I wore a suit into Bukhara.  Was I out of place!  Very informal and comfortable, I was the only guy with a tie in sight.  That was my first hint.  The menu came on a board and there was an apron on the table and after I ordered I noticed there was no silverware.  Oh, this meal would all be by hand.  So, starting with a Kingfisher beer in one hand, I launched into the meal with the other.

Again with the papadams with mint sauce and those great sliced onions with the black salt and lemon.  Everything in Bukhara is cooked in a clay oven in full view of the diners. Given the oven, it seemed appropriate to order the Murgh Tandoori Chicken.  This is a whole chicken marinated in yoghurt, malt vinegar, ginger, garlic paste, red and yellow chilies, turmeric, and garam masala and cooked in a Tandoori oven.  Cut into four pieces, it is served plain on a plate.  Since I am a huge fan of dal and try it everywhere I can, I ordered the Dal Bukhara as a side.  This dish is black lentils, tomatoes, ginger, and garlic simmered overnight and served with cream and unsalted butter swirled in.  Oh, and a little Tandoori naan to sop it all up.

This meal was almost perfect in a simple and rustic way…tearing apart perfectly cooked chicken with my hands, dipping tasty fresh baked naan into dal cooked all night and swilling glasses of Kingfisher beer.  A beautiful thing.  I capped the meal with Masala chai tea and stumbled back to my room.  Pound for pound, Bukhara and Dum-Pukht are some of the best restaurants I have ever had the privilege of experiencing.  Go to New Delhi and enjoy!

Bukhara
ITC Hotel Maurya Sheraton & Towers
Diplomatic Enclave, Sardar Patel Marg
New Delhi, India
Open seven days a week
Lunch: 12:30pm to 2:45pm
Dinner: 7:00pm to 11:45pm

We started with designer martinis.  Mine was some sort of lemoncello concoction that I would simply like to title “Alcoholic Deliciousness.”  Our starter was Sea Bass Tempura with sweet chili-tamarind sauce.  But their version of tempura was an unexpected presentation of a “construct-it-yourself” appetizer.  The makings included raw sea bass, peanut crumbles, and what can only be described as bite-sized fried shells.  Using miniature utensils, you spoon some peanut mixture in the bottom of the shell, sea bass on top, and drizzle with the unique sweet chili sauce, and pop into your mouth in one amazing bite of perfectly complimented flavors.  We were off to a great start.

Kara ordered us a bottle of Sancerre to accompany our dinner.  A light white wine without the boldness of a chardonnay, and my new favorite discovery.  For my entrée I ordered the Hudson Valley Duck Breast with duck confit.  If melt-in-your-mouth were ever to describe something perfectly, this would take the cake.  The duck was prepared perfectly, and when served, the waiter spooned more of the sweet chili sauce that was part of our appetizer directly over the duck.  Now I am ashamed to say that I am not entirely sure what duck confit is, nor do I want to.  Because whatever I put in my mouth tasted like tender, juicy, cooked-till-it-is-falling-apart various unidentified pieces of the innards of a duck that I would prefer to stay anonymous as not to ruin the memory of this confit that I will carry with me for a lifetime.  I ate every bite on my plate.

The rest of the menu consisted of various Thai-inspired dishes, with every meat represented, various vegetarian options, and some sushi dishes as well.  They are known for the chocolate baby back ribs with Thai spices off their appetizer menu, which is something I would love to try the next time I’m in New York.  The service was adequate, nothing terrible and nothing amazing.  They have an extensive wine list as well as a cocktail menu.  Since I stuffed myself with poultry, we didn’t make it to dessert, but if you are curious, selections include flourless chocolate cake with fresh cream and banana spring rolls.  Overall I highly recommend you add Kittichai to your list of New York restaurants to experience.

Situated on a corner of N. Jefferson Street near East Erie Street, Tulip presents itself quite well curbside.  We parked the bikes and after a moment’s hesitation, decided to sit outside in the early fall sunshine.  Tulip provided a large table umbrella for our comfort and we settled in with the menus and some fresh bread with extra virgin olive oil and herbs.  We all enjoyed the smooth tasting oil so much that our server brought out the container for us to see and wrote down the name as well. In case you’re interested, it’s called Racconto from Italy.  We are already searching for a local source.

The lunch menu was delightfully price consistent…$10 for just about anything they offered and each selection got both soup and salad.  A great deal in any city.  Our choices of soups were lentil or sweet potato.  The lentil soup, which looks to be available every day at Tulip, was made with red lentils and Turkish white rice pureed into a lovely consistency with a nice lemony spice (lemon verbena?) undertone.  The sweet potato soup was the ‘Soup of the Day’ and was outstanding.  Creamy, sweet and a very tasty starter.

For our mains, my companions all went for the wraps with either lamb or spicy meatball (a combination of beef, lamb and spices) wrapped in freshly-made pita bread with lettuce, chopped tomatoes, veggies, red pepper sauce and a sauce of yogurt with cucumber and dill on the side. Today’s salad choices were pomegranate and almonds or Mediterranean, served beside the wrap.  Based on the clean plates at the end of lunch, it must have been good.

Trying to be different, I chose an interesting combination called Lamb Mac-n-Cheese which turned out to be a simply presented bowl of al dente elbow macaroni liberally mixed with four cheeses (we guessed Parmigiano-Reggiano, mozzarella, fontina and maybe something Turkish?) and with a nice hint of nutmeg.  It was just about perfect if you are a mac&cheese kinda guy,  which I am.  The tasty seared chunks of grilled lamb were served just pulled off the kebab skewer.  It may sound like a strange dish, but it was simple, tasty and inspired.

Since we had a long bike ride ahead of us, we demurred at the offer of dessert, but our pretty and helpful server insisted that we each have a glass of hot Turkish tea as our final course.

Tulip has exactly what you want from a good restaurant: great food, attentive service and a nice atmosphere.  Even the Ladies Room received high marks.  We took a look at the dinner menu and the lunch choices were expanded with some additional outstanding dishes.  They also have a brunch on Sundays. Give them a try at 117 N. Jefferson Street in Milwaukee or call ahead for a booking at +1 (414) 273-5252.  Check them out on the BlogRoll.