Le Gavroche

London, UK – The meal was terrific, the wine outstanding, the service impeccable and Colonel Mustard was the unscheduled entertainment.  It was a very good night at Le Gavroche, Chef Michel Roux, Jr.’s 2-star Michelin-rated French restaurant just a block or so from the U.S. Embassy in Mayfair.  When I walked in the door I was greeted by a lovely hostess and a small dog and I thought, “Oh, how very French.” But I was soon to realize that the dog had issues.  Or more correctly, that the dog’s owner, Colonel Mustard, had issues.  Before I had finished my first glass of pre-dinner champagne in the intimate bar there had been a problem with his credit card, then his cheque wouldn’t clear, then he loudly ordered a lamb chop for the dog and, to make matters worse, the dog started to bark at arriving diners.  When they seated us, he was our nearest and noisiest neighbor.

The distinguished gentleman in question was in his late 60′s, tall with a shaved head and wearing a light mustard-colored dinner jacket and bow tie.  He was commanding in the way of a retired military officer and loud in the way of someone half deaf.  He put the Le Gavroche staff through their paces all evening long with demands and requests and suggestions of how “Michel” (he thought he was on a first name basis with this famous chef) could improve things around the restaurant.  He even went so far as to deliver his next booking request so that the entire dining room could hear and listed the things that had to happen before he would agree to come again; a particular table so his guests could survey the room, the type of flowers that were short enough so that he could see his guests across the table and that he would not allow any wine at the table.  His guests would only drink pink champagne.  The eye rolling amongst the other diners was epidemic.

Of course, I took the gentleman to be a Lord, or at least an MBE, but my old boss and friend, David Stroud, who had invited me to this dinner months ago, advised me that it was not typically British to act in this manner.  (This kind of boorish behavior is usually ascribed to Americans on holiday by the rest of the world)  But since Brits can detect the slightest regional accent, he had already classified Colonel Mustard’s as East London and slightly Cockney.  The guy was no upper class retired military officer but probably a cab driver made good.  All in all, it was good fun for the entire room of diners to watch even if the staff were a bit harried by the old gentleman.

There was one other incident that made this evening memorable in addition to the food, which I promise I will get to shortly.  Once we were sat down it became immediately apparent that the smallish dining room, maybe 20 tables, was chock full of wait staff all dedicated to our comfort and satisfaction.  Since we elected to have the 8-course matching food and wines menu it was quite simply a ballet of black or white-coated staff sweeping in to the table to set the proper stemware or pour the next wine or serve the next course or to remove plates and glasses or to pour sparkling water.  We marveled that at any one time we could see at least a dozen staff in the dining room.  One lady in particular caught our eye as she seemed to be everywhere.  With her bright red hair and fast movements she stood out from the rest of the short-haired male staffers.  It was a complete shock to us both when she served the main course of lamb and there were two of her!  They were identical twins from Austria and it was now no wonder we thought she was everywhere at once.

OK, now the promised food review.  It will be short and sweet.  I will say this once and then just list the menu and wines we enjoyed and let you see for yourself.  I can’t think of as meal I’ve enjoyed as much.  Chef Michel Roux, Jr. is a genius with subtle flavors and artistic presentation.  His tasting menu is wide-ranging with shellfish and his signature soufflé and, and…just read the menu below and you will see what I mean.  And the paired wines were simply superb.  The gastronomical experience at Le Gavroche is awe inspiring. The good Chef himself came to our table mid-meal to inquire about our experience and graciously signed the tasting menu for David’s daughter, Emily, who had just seen him on a television program.  It was a delightful evening to have good company, outstanding food and great entertainment.  This is a world class restaurant.

What we enjoyed:

Petite Salade de Homard à la Mangue et Citron Vert

Lobster Salad with Mango, Avocado, Basil and Lime

Vondeling Babiana Noctiflora 2005

Paarl, South Africa

 

Soufflé Suissesse

Cheese Soufflé Cooked on Double Cream

Champagne Martel Cuvée Victoire “Fût de Chêne” 1998

 

Coquille St. Jacques “à la Coque”, Parfumées au Gingembre

Scallop Baked in the Shell, Flavoured with Ginger

Domaine Gavoty “Cuvée Clarendon” Rosé 2007

Côtes de Provence

 

Gratin de Langoustines et Escargots au Persil et Piment d’Espelette

Langoustines and Snails Glazed in a light Hollandaise Sauce

flavoured with Basque Pepper and Parsley

Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru “Les Caradeux” 2004

Domaine Chanson

 

Escalope de Foie Gras Chaud et Pastille à la Cannelle

Hot Duck Foie Gras and Crispy Duck Pancake Flavored with Cinnamon

Banyuls Reserva

Domaine de la Tour Vielle

 

Agneau de lait des Pyrénées Rôti, Flageolets, Carottes et Petits Navets

Roast Lamb from The Pyrennes

Flageolet Beans with Wild Mushrooms, Thyme Sauce

Château du Paradis 2000

St. Emilion Grand Cru

 

Le Plateau de Fromages

Selection of French and British Farmhouse Cheese

Château Cabezac “Belvèze” 2005

Minervois

 

Le Petite Assiette du Chef

An Assortment of the Chef’s favourite Desserts

Vin de Constance 2004

Klein Constantia

 

Café at Petits Fours

There you have it.  One of the finest meals I have ever had the pleasure of experiencing.  And the experience was almost sensory overload with the progression of outstanding dishes, the perfect wine pairings, the ballet of the staff on the dining room floor and the overblown antics of our friend Colonel Mustard in the next booth.  The funniest thing said all evening came from the maître’d to we patrons in the bar after Colonel Mustard and his, I’m sure long-suffering, wife were seated downstairs and out of earshot.  He noted after coming in from the foyer where the little dog was yapping that the Chef now recommended “rack of dog”.

If you ever want to treat your sweetheart or impress a business client, this is the place to go.  You will not be disappointed in any aspect of your experience.  Le Gavroche deserves its Michelin stars and our continued patronage.  Well done Chef Roux.  Please see their website on the Blogroll.

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